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Kelly Rutherford Embraces Summer in Italy With Hermès’ White Oran Slides

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Kelly Rutherford took a relaxed approach to vacationing in Italy — in fact, down to her shoes.

On Sunday, the “Gossip Girl” star snapped a new post on Instagram while on a trip to the Tuscan sea town of Forte dei Marmi. For the occasion, she slipped on a pair of Hermès’ Oran slides — a $700 sandal style crafted from smooth white calfskin leather, complete with flat soles and wide “H”-shaped cutout straps.

Rutherford’s casual, minimalist sandals were ideal when dealing with the summer heat, thanks to their ventilated silhouette and ability to be easily slipped on and off. The “Perfectionist” actress’ pair also smoothly complemented her outfit for the occasion: a lightweight, pale blue Lem Lem minidress with white and golden yellow trim, as well as a woven raffia handbag from French brand Cose.

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Hermès’ Oran sandals.COURTESY OF HERMÈS

Slides like Rutherford’s are favored in the summer months for their open silhouettes and easy wear. Styles in brown, black and white suede and leather are the most popular, thanks to their versatility with a range of outfits and ability to be worn from day to night. The slide silhouette has also risen as a top seasonal shoe choice over the years, with new styles regularly released from a range of brands — as seen in new pairs from labels including Vionic, Tkees and Saint Laurent.

Rutherford’s shoe style is subtle and minimalist. On the red carpet, the “Melrose Place” actress often wears neutral and metallic sandals, boots and pumps from luxury brands including Christian Louboutin and Sania d’Mina. For more casual occasions, Rutherford can be seen in flat sandals and slides from Hermès and Birkenstock.

2023
08/14
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Neiman Marcus Undergoes More Layoffs and Exec Changes

Neiman Marcus
Outside the Neiman Marcus store at Hudson Yards in New York.
SCOTT FRANCES/COURTESY OF HUDSON YARDS

Neiman Marcus Group, an early purveyor of the customer-always-comes-first mentality and a retailer that still lavishes big spenders with luxury and service, wants to become even more “customer-centric.”

Central to what executives described as their new operating model, the Neiman Marcus Group is reorienting its buying approach. Merchants will now be more intensely focused on customer data and insights, and the company has formed a marketing strategy and customer analytics team.

NMG has also created new senior management roles and consolidated certain responsibilities to eliminate silos that typically limit interactions between different business functions and slow the execution of plans.

Among the exec changes, Stefanie Tsen Ward has been appointed chief integrated retail officer, a new role in which she leads the digital, stores and remote selling teams in an effort to encourage multichannel shopping. She previously held the title of chief retail officer for the Neiman Marcus brand and will now report to Ryan Ross who last February became NMG’s head of customer insights while continuing as president of the Neiman Marcus brand. According to the company, for the 12-month period up to the conclusion of NMG’s second fiscal quarter this year, multichannel customers spent five times that of single-channel customers.

Ann Marie Janke has become NMG’s chief technology and information officer. These were two roles before, and Janke had been NMG’s chief information officer. She will be involved in advancing tech products, such as Neiman’s proprietary Connect clienteling tool, and IT, which is all about the data. Her appointment follows last February’s change with Darcy Penick, who became NMG’s head of product and technology while continuing as president of Bergdorf Goodman. Janke reports to Penick now.

In addition, Andrew Floyd has been named vice president of marketing strategy and customer analytics, a new role in the organization. He will lead the new marketing strategy and customer analytics team, reporting to Ross. Floyd had been vice president of acquisition and growth. And Amanda Martin was promoted to chief supply chain officer, continuing to lead supply chain transformation and operations.

WWD has also learned that NMG has triggered another round of personnel cuts at the corporate offices, not at the stores. Less than one percent of the total workforce are affected, or under 100 individuals.

In February, NMG announced it was laying off hundreds of workers, representing just less than 5 percent of its total workforce, which at the time was approximately 10,000 workers. That included about 100 workers at NMG corporate and a few hundred workers at stores and other areas of the business.

In its last fiscal report, the company reported a deceleration of the business, citing the tough economic climate and shifts in affluent customer spending toward travel and other experiences. The Dallas-based luxury retailer has become increasingly “surgical” (to quote NMG’s chief executive officer Geoffroy van Raemdonck) in managing expenses, focused on marketing to its top-spending customers shopping across channels and changing how it operates including enabling staff to work remotely, which has helped recruit and retain talent.

An improved financial performance would help NMG owners Davidson Kempner Capital Management, Sixth Street Partners and Pacific Investment Management Co. cash in on their investment, possibly through a public offering of NMG or a sale of the company or parts of it to another retailer, or to private equity. While there has been media speculation about what the owners could do, a transaction does not appear imminent.

“In this new operating model we are going to pivot to buying for the right audience — the customers who are loyal to us or have potential to have a high customer lifetime value,” van Raemdonck said in an exclusive interview.

“Historically, we bought the product that we thought was the most attractive in the market. Historically, merchants have looked at what brands are growing and that gives you one answer. Now they’re really looking at the most attractive customers and what they are buying,” van Raemdonck explained. “How do we buy more for that type of customer to either grow business with those customers or recruit customers” with similar profiles. “So it’s really applying this customer-centricity.

“We’re not looking to gain market share. We’re not looking to gain transaction. We’re looking to gain share of wallet of the customers who are in a relationship with us. That is the pivot we are facilitating by really framing the role of the merchant differently, and supporting them with a new team which we call ‘customer analytics’ with a VP to provide them with much more insight.” This new team, the CEO said, “will be figuring out what we need to do in terms of what we buy and then how we create activations, events and marketing for the customers that we want.”

NMG’s shift in its buying approach began on a pilot basis last spring for fall with a handful of categories including women’s designer ready-to-wear and shoes. It’s being rolled out to other categories. But evolving the operating model started more than a year ago when van Raemdonck outlined efforts to concentrate marketing and selling efforts on the top Neiman’s shoppers.

According to the company, 2 percent of Neiman’s customers drive about 40 percent of the volume and there’s a 90 percent retention rate among the top customers, who on average spend more than $25,000 annually. Van Raemdonck reshaped top management by assigning Penick at Bergdorf’s and Ross at Neiman’s to group-level responsibilities, for faster decision-making.

With Janke’s appointment to chief technology and information officer, “We’re really merging the technology and the IT teams together, which we believe is important because we’ve got significant investment in technology,” van Raemdonck said, citing new supply chain systems, re-platforming Bergdorf online, and customer relationship management (CRM) and loyalty programs. Blending the two functions will lead to much faster execution, van Raemdonck said. “The focus there is about stronger collaboration and increased execution.”

Asked about the latest round of cutbacks, van Raemdonck said they were geared to remove redundant roles and are “a byproduct of organizing ourselves to be more customer-centric, more agile and execute faster. It’s to break silos.”

This week’s changes reflects the next phase in evolving NMG’s operating model, he said.

“I always say there are three things that differentiate our business model. We believe in integrated retail. We believe in assisted selling and the power of our sales associates, and we believe in curated assortments. And by bringing the organization together, breaking any silos and facilitating the customer journey across our three channels (stores, online and remote selling by associates), that will accelerate our growth. The journey we are on is to amplify our strategy, to maximize our differentiated business model.”

Van Raemdonck did acknowledge that “Sometimes we buy for customers who buy one time with us and don’t come back. We are trying to move our assortment towards the categories, the brands and the classifications that really resonate best with customers in relationships with us, and entice them to buy more from us, and it’s literally based on a better set of analytics that shows at the category level, the classification level, the brand level and the price points that our customer wants. Not surprisingly, it’s the brands that are more luxury, that have the best offering. It starts from the data the merchants are using. We have refined and upgraded the way we analyze the data and make it available,” van Raemdonck noted. “It’s really providing insights to our merchants. And so now are we buying for an audience versus buying what we think we can sell.”

“We are not buying less. We are buying better,” van Raemdonck clarified.

There can be differences between what brands want to sell to retailers and what retailers want to buy, and big brands exert a lot of pressure in the negotiations.

Van Raemdonck said NMG sells “an enormous amount” of designer ready-to-wear and other luxury categories and often penetrates much deeper than the brand penetrates themselves in those categories. “The brands look at us as the gateway to the luxury customer in the U.S.,” he said.

“And so with that we’ve had a great response with brands, when we show them the quality of our customer, and how, by buying this way, and by having them do more exclusives with us, we can give them access to more of the true luxury customer in the U.S. We don’t pretend to tell them what to sell. But we do give them very informed guidance as to where the white space is in their offering. And then usually many brands develop an exclusive with us that addresses that segment. That’s the value we bring in. I actually personally spend enough time with brand CEOs globally to talk about what our customer buys, and what they could provide more of to get that luxury customer to buy more from them. So it’s part of a conversation.”

Coincidentally, Saks, the e-commerce business of the Saks Fifth Avenue brand — and NMG’s arch-rival — is also changing its work culture. Similar to Neiman’s strategy, Saks executives last month said the company is breaking down silos and has repositioned teams for closer collaboration and greater agility, and to apply data insights more effectively to the buying, planning and marketing.

The goal is to capture greater market share and provide a better online experience for customers. Key changes at Saks.com involve the creation of 10 “pods” for the different categories of business with each pod consisting of individuals on category growth, buying and planning teams working together, and an enhancement of the category growth function to closely monitor what’s happening on the website from an analytical standpoint and a merchandising standpoint.

 

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08/14
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After Reporting a Strong Fiscal Year, L.L. Bean Is Focused on Opening Stores and Key Retailers

An exterior view of the L.L.Bean store in Salem, N.H.
An exterior view of the L.L.Bean store in Salem, N.H.
COURTESY OF L.L.BEAN

After closing its 2022 fiscal year in March with net revenue of $1.8 billion — the company’s second-strongest revenue performance in history — L.L.Bean is focused on its omnichannel growth strategy.

This effort, L.L. Bean said in a statement, will have its products in more than 70 new storefronts, in addition to e-commerce platforms.

“Our omnichannel growth strategy continues to be an effective framework for our business, ensuring we’re able to meet customers where they are through a unique mix of channels and locations,” L.L.Bean president and CEO Stephen Smith said in a statement. “We’re grateful to be in a position to expand our retail presence and build new wholesale relationships in order to serve more customers. Everything we do is in support of our company purpose to enable people to experience the restorative power of being outside, and these new ventures will ensure we’re able to fulfill that purpose for years to come.”

L.L. Bean announced in a statement that it is set to debut four stores in North America, including two in Canada and two in the U.S. The Canada doors will be in Quebec, located in the greater Montreal region — Saint-Bruno-de-Montarville opening Aug. 25 and Boisbriand opening Sept. 29. These mark the brand’s first retail stores in Quebec. What’s more, L.L. Bean confirmed it will launch a French-language e-commerce site to coincide with the store openings.

After closing its 2022 fiscal year in March with net revenue of $1.8 billion — the company’s second-strongest revenue performance in history — L.L.Bean is focused on its omnichannel growth strategy.

This effort, L.L. Bean said in a statement, will have its products in more than 70 new storefronts, in addition to e-commerce platforms.

“Our omnichannel growth strategy continues to be an effective framework for our business, ensuring we’re able to meet customers where they are through a unique mix of channels and locations,” L.L.Bean president and CEO Stephen Smith said in a statement. “We’re grateful to be in a position to expand our retail presence and build new wholesale relationships in order to serve more customers. Everything we do is in support of our company purpose to enable people to experience the restorative power of being outside, and these new ventures will ensure we’re able to fulfill that purpose for years to come.”

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Dick's sporting goods
Dick’s to Acquire Moosejaw From Walmart to Bolster Outdoor Portfolio

L.L. Bean announced in a statement that it is set to debut four stores in North America, including two in Canada and two in the U.S. The Canada doors will be in Quebec, located in the greater Montreal region — Saint-Bruno-de-Montarville opening Aug. 25 and Boisbriand opening Sept. 29. These mark the brand’s first retail stores in Quebec. What’s more, L.L. Bean confirmed it will launch a French-language e-commerce site to coincide with the store openings.

L.L. Bran’s stores in the U.S. will both be located in Massachusetts. Hanover will debut first, opening Sept. 8, followed by Peabody on Oct. 6.

At the moment, L.L. Bean has 56 stores in the U.S, another 25 stores in Japan and has 13 licensed retail store locations in Canada that are operated by Jaytex Group.

Aside from brick-and-mortar expansion, L.L. Bean confirmed it will add two key wholesale accounts to its U.S. roster: Dillard’s and Moosejaw. Also, the company will add 10 independent specialty retailers in the southeastern U.S.

“As a 110-year-old company, we have taken great care in ensuring we deliver exemplary customer service to everyone who visits an L.L. Bean store, shops with us online, orders through our famed catalog, or via any other touchpoint,” L.L. Bean chief retail officer Greg Elder said in a statement. “We are honored to be in a period of growth as a company, and that is a credit to our customers, employees and partners. We look forward to continuing to deliver industry-leading customer service and offer everyone who shops with us the goods they need for life, home, and any adventure that awaits.”

2023
08/08
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Superdry Secures New Financing as It Continues Turnaround Plan

SuperDry, store, NYC
Outside a SuperDry store in New York City.

Superdry has secured new financing as it hopes to continue to improve its business.

On Monday, the U.K.-based retail chain said in a regulatory filing that it had obtained a secondary lending facility of up to 25 million British pounds ($32 million, based on current exchange) with Hilco Capital Ltd., a subsidiary of the U.S.-based group Hilco Global.

In the filing, Superdry said that the new funds will improve its liquidity and will help accelerate the implementation of its turnaround plan and cost-reduction program.

The company added that the facility with Hilco is for a 12-month term with the option to extend and is at an interest rate of 10.5 percent plus the Bank of England base rate on the drawn element.

The agreement follows multiple initiatives from the retailer to strengthen its balance sheet.

In December, the company inked an 80 million pound ($102 million) asset-backed lending facility with Bantry Bay Capital Ltd. This facility replaced the existing 70 million pound ($89 million) asset-based lending facility obtained in 2020, which was due to expire at the end of January 2023.

In March, the company went a step further, agreeing to sell its intellectual property assets in certain countries within the Asia Pacific (APAC) region for $50 million. Shortly after this move, Superdry issued a trading update on its fiscal 2023 outlook in April, which included the announcement of its turnaround plan.

In the plan, the company said it had identified initial cost savings of over 35 million pounds ($45 million). These will be achieved through estate optimization, logistics and distribution savings, better procurement and continued range reduction, Superdry noted in the plan.

The company expects these savings to be fully realized by the end of fiscal 2024, with the costs to achieve them primarily incurred in calendar year 2023.

“The Superdry brand continues to evolve, but there is no doubt that the market conditions we face are challenging, compounded by the issues we have previously disclosed and are working to address in wholesale,” founder and CEO Julian Dunkerton said in a statement in April. “As a result, while we continue to deliver like-for-like growth in retail sales, we need to ensure our business is in the right shape to navigate these difficult times, which is why we are looking hard at our cost base.”

In May, Superdry completed a 12 million pound ($15 million) equity raise to help fund its turnaround plan. As part of the raise, 11.1 million ($14.2 million) came through the sale of 15.7 million new shares, equating to 19.1 percent of the company’s equity.

In its most recent guidance, Superdry expects fiscal 2023 revenue to be in the range of 615 million pounds ($786 million) to 635 million pounds ($812 million), up from 609 million pounds ($779 million) last year.

2023
08/08
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Zappos Is Employing Nostalgia to Win Over Consumers This Back-to-School Season

 

This back-to-school season, Zappos is kicking it old-school.

The online shoe retailer has rolled out a ’90s-style catalog to advertise its kids’ and teen merchandise. The catalog, which was sent out in mid-July to about 700,000 customers who typically purchase shoes for kids, includes product images, games and a shoe sizer.

The catalog is designed to pull on the heartstrings of parents who likely remember growing up in a simpler time before e-commerce reigned supreme, when shopping from catalogs was the norm and an exciting part of the back-to-school experience.

“This is kind of our ode to that nostalgia,” explained Zappos’ chief merchandising and marketing officer Joe Cano in an interview with FN. “We want to make sure that as these elder millennial parents are having their kids go to school, they actually have some fun and have something that they can share with their kids and can create that moment versus being stuck to the screen the entire time.”

Zappos rolled out its first back-to-school catalog in 2019, but put it on pause throughout the pandemic. Now, the shoe retailer has brought back its successful initiative and has already seen a bump in traffic, according to early reads from the company.

zappos catalog
Zappos’ catalog includes an assortment of adaptive footwear products.ZAPPOS

In line with Zappos’ commitment to the adaptive category, the catalog also includes adaptive products from brands such as Billy Footwear.

“Adaptive will always be at the core of Zappos,” Cano said. “We want to make sure that someone can find the most amazing pair of shoes on our site, no matter what age or stage they’re at.”

The shoe retailer has utilized nostalgia for other campaigns in the past as well. For its 20th anniversary in 2019, Zappos turned its website back to what it looked like when it launched in 1999 for one day. And next year, Zappos plans to launch a similar series of nostalgia-focused campaigns for its 25th anniversary and is currently in talks with vendors to highlight and bring back shoes that were popular in the 1990s.

“Some of this nostalgia, as you’re seeing across the board, I think it’s resonating not only with parents, but with kids,” Cano said. “If you look at the current trends right now, they’re very much coming back to that ’90s nostalgia, which plays in perfectly with what this catalog represents.”

Other brands have also seen recent success with throwback campaigns. McDonald’s saw a surge in engagement when it offered a Grimace Birthday Meal special in honor of the purple mascot’s 52nd anniversary. Among footwear brands, consumers are increasingly opting for ‘90’s retro styles like the Adidas Samba.

For Zappos, the key is balancing this nostalgia factor with modern elements for shopping ease. For example, the catalogs include QR codes for people to be able to quickly make their way to the Zappos website.

“I want to make it fun and nostalgic, but I don’t want us to try to reinvent what ordering was back in 1999,” Cano said. “I want to make it very seamless.”

The catalog campaign is a part of Zappos’ continued push in the kids category, which involves a broader emphasis on the growing back-to-school business.

“Back-to-school is becoming a bigger and bigger portion for us,” Cano said. “For us, we want to make this a bigger portion of our business as we go forward.”

2023
08/08
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