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Vince Camuto Launches New Fly365 Shoe Franchise as Company Aims to Build Men’s Category

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A look at Vince Camuto’s new Fly365 shoes for men

Vince Camuto has launched its first men’s franchise shoe line.

Dubbed “Fly365,” the collection debuts today with two new hybrid, dress-meets-casual styles – the Talmai and Tayden. Both models are launching in three colorways and such materials as hand-antiqued full-grain leather, soft and durable nubucks and breathable airy knits.

According to the brand — which is a division of Camuto Group, owned by Designer Brands Inc. — what sets the Fly365 line apart is the use of a supportive cupsole for stability, a cushioned lightweight midsole for weight reduction and energy return, and a rubber outsole for traction and durability. The line also features a removable performance footbed and linings made using KulKote temperature-regulating technology.

Jorge Gomez, VP and GM of Vince Camuto Men’s, told FN in an interview that the new line was sparked from a consumer need for a shoe with both style and comfort. “In this post-COVID world, modern male consumers are less likely to compromise on comfort, and it’s required at this point in the men’s category,” Gomez noted. “With this new franchise, we are taking our European-inspired aesthetic and infusing it with technical comfort innovation.”

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Jorge Gomez, VP and GM of Vince Camuto Men’sCOURTESY OF VINCE CAMUTO

This launch comes as Vince Camuto sees growth in its men’s shoe business. On the company’s first-quarter 2023 earnings call last month, Designer Brands CEO Doug Howe told analysts that Vince Camuto’s men’s casual direct-to-consumer business was up 87 percent in the period. “We are offering him a breadth of assortment in casuals across different types of constructions, sportier technical constructions and versatile dress hybrids,” Howe said at the time.

While on the call, Howe teased the Fly365 launch and called it an “important step” for the Vince Camuto brand as it begins a “journey of engaging” its male customer in an expanded manner.

Companywide, Howe noted on last month’s call that men’s made up roughly 20 percent of sales across all its categories in the first quarter.

Vince Camuto, Fly365, men's shoes, men's, sneakers, dress shoes, comfort shoes
A look at Vince Camuto’s new Fly365 shoes for men.COURTESY OF VINCE CAMUTO

Looking ahead, Gomez told FN that the Fly365 line will be expanding to include a wider variety of styles, including boots in the fall and further offerings for spring 2024. “As a designer, men’s is a very exciting category to be in right now,” Gomez admitted. “There is a lot of innovation happening across the category, and I’m happy we can be a part of this movement.”

Vince Camuto’s new men’s Fly365 styles, which retail for $169, are now available at Vincecamuto.com. A wider release at Macy’s and Belk stores is planned for this fall.

 

2023
07/13
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Footwear Prices in June Drop for the First Time in Over Two Years as Back-to-School Season Approaches

Sale red signs at retail store
Sale red signs at retail store

Inflation in June rose at slowing rate, and footwear retail prices saw a decrease for the first time in more than two years.

Consumer prices rose 3 percent in June compared to last year, according to the latest Consumer Price Index released on Wednesday by the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics. This marks the smallest 12-month increase since the period ending March 2021 and a slowdown from May’s 4 percent growth and April’s 4.9 percent. Compared to May 2023, prices in June rose 0.2 percent.

Excluding volatile food and energy costs, the Core CPI rose 0.2 percent from May and 4.8 percent from the same month in 2022.

The progress comes as retailers gear up for the 2023 back-to-school season, which is likely to be characterized by shoppers looking for the best deals. KPMG’s 2023 Consumer Back to School survey found that shoppers plan to spend on average about $377 per kid this season, which is up 21 percent from a year ago. More than 60 percent of respondents report being concerned about inflation, with 70 percent of them looking for early discounts and 57 percent looking for cheaper brands.

Retail footwear prices dropped 0.9 in June compared to the prior year, marking the first time prices dropped in 26 months. Women’s footwear prices dropped 0.2 percent and men’s declined 1.6 percent. Just in time for back-to-school, children’s footwear prices dropped 0.8 percent.

According to the Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America (FDRA), year-to-date footwear prices are up just 0.2 percent and are expected to decline year-over-year through the second half of 2023. In April, FDRA noted a large gap between import costs and retail prices, which FDRA predicted would level out.

“With retail footwear prices certainly not likely to go sharply higher, we continue to look for these import costs to remain soft well through 2023, narrowing this gap even further,” Gary Raines, chief economist at FDRA, told FN.

Online prices in June also fell 2.6 percent year-over-year, according to data from Adobe on Tuesday. This marked the biggest drop since since May 2020 when prices fell 1.5% year over year. Compared the May, online prices fell 1.3 percent in June.

2023
07/13
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Big-Box, Shoe Specialty Stores Are Set to Win Back-to-School Season, Coresight Finds

The storefront of Walmart in Los Angeles, California on August 18, 2020.
The storefront of Walmart in Los Angeles, California on August 18, 2020

Big-box retailers and shoe specialty stores are poised to reap the benefits of the back-to-school season this year.

According to Coresight Research’s U.S. Back-to-School 2023 report, Walmart will dominate the season and see roughly the same number of shoppers this year compared to 2022. About 60.2 percent of consumers said they plan to shop at Walmart this season. This lead is followed by Amazon (48.8 percent) and Target (39 percent). All three of these top retailers are especially popular among parents shopping with older children.

However, the number of consumers planning to shop at Amazon and Target this year is expected to be fewer when compared to 2022. On the other hand, off-price and dollar store chains such as Dollar Tree, Dollar General and TJX Companies saw increases in the number of shoppers who plan to shop there this year, compared to last year.

When it comes to footwear, consumers expressed a strong preference towards shopping among specialty retailers such as Foot Locker, Shoe Carnival and Famous Footwear, all three of which saw double-digit shares of shopper preference.

“Overall, it appears that consumers will concentrate shopping at a narrower variety of stores than last year, since many popular chains have seen a decline in projected shopper numbers,” read the report.

After a relatively slow Q1, a robust back-to-school season could give retailers a much-needed boost to make up for lost ground. Various shoe chains have already spoken confidently about their plans for back-to-school, with some rolling out new campaigns to capture demand.

Just this week, Foot Locker launched its back-to-school campaign, which ties in a community-focus with in-store events focused on giving back. And the Caleres-owned Famous Footwear expects to surpass its best ever back-to-school performance from 2022 this year with a new marketing campaign that will target the millennial family.

In-store engagement will be essential this year, as consumers overwhelmingly plan to shop in stores, the survey found. Almost four in five shoppers plan to shop in stores this season, up 4.1 percentage points from the prior year and more than 8 percentage points more than those who plan to purchase online. 48.4 percent plan to shop in two or more channels.

Overall, families plan to spend more on back-to-school this year, as prices remain high due to inflation. According to KPMG’s 2023 Consumer Back to School survey of more than 600 U.S. households with students, shoppers plan to spend on average about $377 per kid, which is up 21 percent from a year ago. More than 60 percent of respondents reported being concerned about inflation, with 70 percent of them looking for early discounts and 57 percent looking for cheaper brands.

 

2023
07/09
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Brooks’ Prioritizes Re-Commerce With ‘ReStart’

Brooks Restart, shoe resale, resale, sneakers
COURTESY OF BROOKS

Starting Thursday, fans of Brooks running shoes can get another look at old favorites.

With the launch of “ReStart,” a re-commerce program in partnership with resale solution provider Trove, gently used Brooks footwear styles will make their way to U.S. resale markets on behalf of the brand.

Melanie Allen, chief marketing officer at Brooks, said the program will help the brand reach a growing community of “conscientious consumers” while helping extend the life of lightly worn Brooks products. The program is a stepping stone to broader circularity ambitions as running shoe brands take on the task of worn-out treads given the high mileage factor for active runners. The program is timely as running shoe makers are increasingly investing in circular product innovation.

Starting Thursday, fans of Brooks running shoes can get another look at old favorites.

With the launch of “ReStart,” a re-commerce program in partnership with resale solution provider Trove, gently used Brooks footwear styles will make their way to U.S. resale markets on behalf of the brand.

Melanie Allen, chief marketing officer at Brooks, said the program will help the brand reach a growing community of “conscientious consumers” while helping extend the life of lightly worn Brooks products. The program is a stepping stone to broader circularity ambitions as running shoe brands take on the task of worn-out treads given the high mileage factor for active runners. The program is timely as running shoe makers are increasingly investing in circular product innovation.

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Brooks’ ReStart program will incorporate three quality-grade ranges spanning “like new,” “great” and “good” in a variety of Brooks’ footwear styles. These include fan favorites, or bestsellers, such as the Ghost (retailing for $89.95) and Glycerin (retailing for $160) and speed products like the Hyperion franchise (retailing for $99.95 and up). Resale prices start at 35 percent off retail, per the brand.

Currently, the program is fully online and only available to U.S. customers. The Seattle-based company looks to increase its sustainability commitments having set near-term and net-zero emissions reduction targets as verified by the Science Based Targets Initiative. Meanwhile, last year Trove said it processed more than 1.5 million items. The re-commerce firm partners with the likes of Carhartt, Canada Goose, On and Allbirds, among others.

“Re-commerce allows us to keep gear on the run while supporting our aim to take responsibility for the impact of our business,” Dave Kemp, Brooks director of corporate responsibility, said in a press statement. “The launch of ReStart is an important step in the brand’s long-term, science-backed approach to sustainability.”

2023
07/06
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Canada Goose Is Launching Sneakers

Canada Goose sneakers
Canada Goose will enter the sneaker category in July.
COURTESY OF CANADA GOOSE

Canada Goose is getting into the sneaker business.

This month, the brand will release its Glacier Trail sneaker, a look the luxury lifestyle label explained “meets the needs of the modern explorer.” This consumer, Canada Goose said, “demands style, comfort, protection and stability.” It will debut in both a low-cut version as well as a high.

Canada Goose Glacier Trail High
A model in the Canada Goose Glacier Trail High.COURTESY OF DAVEY ADESIDA

The release of sneakers, according to Canada Goose, is a natural progression for the company since announcing its debut in footwear with boots in September 2021.

“Part of what led us down this road of sneakers is really just classic consumer insight,” Canada Goose SVP of footwear Scott Portzline told FN. “One of the folks that was helping us test our Arctic boots from the beginning was adamant about a more modern approach to footwear that was faster, lighter, more stripped down, more athletic in nature. That put the bug in our ear, from a pure consumer insights standpoint.”

2023
07/06
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What Insiders Expect From a Nike Kobe Relaunch

Nike Kobe 6 Protro Green Apple Grinch
Nike Kobe 6 Protro “Grinch.”
COURTESY OF NIKE

Throughout the company’s earnings call on Thursday, Nike president and CEO John Donahoe offered several insights into the health of its basketball business. While delivering a long list of accolades, the executive also confirmed Nike would soon relaunch NBA icon Kobe Bryant’s brand.

The Kobe brand relaunch, Donahoe stated, would take place in advance of Kobe Day on August 24. (The date represents the two jersey numbers Bryant wore during his NBA career.)

Although details of what the relaunch will include were sparse, the announcement was enough to get both industry insiders and fans of the Nike Kobe sneaker franchise talking.

Matt Powell, an advisor at Spurwink River consultancy, offered a bit of Nike Kobe sneaker history to FN, and detailed the shift in consumer behavior following Bryant’s untimely and tragic death from a helicopter crash in February 2020.

“It’s important to understand that before Kobe died, his shoes were not that popular here in the U.S. They were wildly popular in Asia, but not popular here,” Powell told FN. “After he passed, the opportunists out there thought they could get a shoe that would have high value because they weren’t going to make any more of them and people commemorating his life would pay a high multiple.”

Darryl Glover, famed collector whose collection is dominated Nike Kobe styles, has confirmed this massive shift in a fan’s ability — or inability — to purchase the styles at retail.

“Prior to 2020, I could generally get my hands on every Kobe release. Now, it has been nearly impossible,” Glover said. “With the help family and friends, I have been able to get my hands on few pairs, but without them I would have been unsuccessful.”

Not long after the athlete’s death, his wife Vanessa Bryant publicly expressed a desire for his fans to have more access to his Nike shoes. Specifically, she addressed this on Instagram Stories in December 2020 following the launch of the Nike Kobe 6 Protro “Grinch.”

In the time since, the contractual agreement between Nike and Kobe Bryant came to an end in April 2021, and a new partnership between Nike and Vanessa Bryant was announced in March 2022.

With the upcoming relaunch, although the Bryant family had once called for better access, Glover isn’t confident Nike will deviate far from its scarcity model when it comes to the athlete’s shoe releases.

“Considering those who were not historically Kobe fans might now want his sneakers because of the legacy and wanting to be associated with that, I don’t anticipate an increase in availability because that scarcity model is what drives sales,” Glover said. “From a typical and general business standpoint, making more sneakers could be a risk for Nike. No company wants leftover inventory or product that will then need to be discounted, but I don’t think that would be the case with Kobes.”

He continued, “Even if they do make Kobes slightly more available, it still has to make business sense for the company. I’m sure they don’t want an iconic shoe in a discount or outlet store.”

Powell disagrees.

“It was very clear from yesterday’s call that Nike is scrambling here for business. Their business is not good and they’re trying to figure out a way to right that ship,” Powell said. “I have a feeling they’re going to put a lot of pairs of shoes in the marketplace.”

He continued, “The popularity of shoes is driven by the sense that, ‘I’m going to be able to make a lot of money here. I’m going to be able to buy a shoe at retail and flip it for much more than I paid for it.’ All of that is always based on scarcity. If Nike now starts producing big numbers — and we don’t know that from [Donahoe’s] commentary — but if they do start producing big numbers, this shoe could fall out of popularity very quickly.”

This strategy, according to Powell, could eventually prove costly.

“It’s exactly the wrong thing to do here in terms of sustainable long-term business,” Powell said. “If they kept the quantities relatively tight, I think it would keep consumer interest up, it would help support the resale market and this shoe could go on for a while. If they put a lot of pairs in the market, if the kid isn’t going to be able to get the multiple on the resale price, I think interest will wane very quickly.”

When Nike reported its fourth-quarter earnings for fiscal 2023 on Thursday, the company missed expectations. The athletic giant reported Q4 revenues of $12.8 billion, up 5 percent compared to 2022. For the full year, revenues were $51.2 billion, up 10 percent over the prior year.

2023
07/04
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Zalando files lawsuit against the European Commission

Zalando files lawsuit against the European Commission
The German-based company challenges its designation as a “Very Large Online Platform”, under Article 33 of the Digital Services Act (DSA), which obliges it to manage systemic risks
Zalando argues that the European Commission didn’t consider the “majority retail nature of its business model”, thereby claiming that “it does not present a system risk of disseminating harmful or illegal content from third parties”. The company went further, adding that is being subject to “unequal treatment” due to the non-existence of a clear and consistent methodology able to assess whether a company is a “Very Large Online Platform” or not.
At the end of April, the European Commission published a list with a total of 17 ‘Very Large Online Platforms’ (or VLOPs) and two ‘Very Large Online Search Engines’ (or VLOSES). In practical terms, it means these have a special responsibility concerning online security.
Zalando, the only fashion retailer listed alongside platforms like Alibaba AliExpress, Amazon, Facebook, Apple and Wikipedia, states that it “offers its customers a safe online environment with highly curated products from leading brands and established partners that are thoroughly vetted”.
2023
07/02
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Preparations for the next UITIC Congress steam ahead

Preparations for the next UITIC Congress steam ahead
The organization of the 21st edition of the International Technical Footwear Congress, which will be held next September, received 106 abstracts on the themes of sustainability and innovation
The President of the International Union of Shoe Industry Technicians (UITIC), Yves Morin, has shared on social media that the organization of the upcoming International Technical Footwear Congress has received 106 abstracts by “renowned experts from 21 countries, such as Italy, France, Spain, Portugal, Germany, the United Kingdom, Canada, Mexico, India, China and Hong Kong”. In his view, this participation “augurs very well for the event”.
Scheduled to take place from the 20th to the 22nd of September 2023, in Milan and Vigevano, the Congress, organized by the International Union of Shoe Industry Technicians (UITIC), with the support of the National Association of Italian Manufacturers of Footwear, Leather Goods, and Tanning Technologies (ASSOMAC) and the Messe Frankfurt Italia, will address the topics of innovation and sustainability, namely, how to move “towards sustainability through innovation”.
The next phase, added the President of UITIC, is up to Françoise Nicolas, President of the Congress Scientific Committee, as they will be responsible for making the final selection of the oral and visual presentations.
2023
07/02
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White Mountain to Launch Outerwear as Part of Aggressive Product Expansion

White Mountain outerwear coats fall 2023
White Mountain will launch outwear in fall ’23.
COURTESY OF AMERICAN EXCHANGE GROUP

After more than 40 years of specializing in women’s footwear, White Mountain and its sister label, Cliffs, have been undergoing rapid expansion in recent months.

In January, the two brands were acquired by New York-based footwear and accessories company American Exchange Group — and their new parent has quickly unleashed a flurry of licensing deals to broaden the scope of the collections, including entering the kids’ category and the legwear market, and adding slippers and flip-flops.

Its latest move is to launch White Mountain and Cliffs outerwear. The line will consist of raincoats, puffer jackets, vests and ski pants for women, men and kids, produced under license by Mirage Fashion Group, a privately held global outerwear company.

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American Exchange Group said the first outerwear collections are due to launch in fall ’23 and initially will be available at major retailers such as Kohls.com, Burlington, Sierra Trading and the TJX stores. Expanded distribution to all outdoor retailers is expected in 2024, at which point the brands will also introduce additional items including 3-in-1 jackets and ski jackets for men and women.

Cynthia Nixon, EVP of licensing and brand development at American Exchange Group, explained the motivation behind the launch. “The brands ‘White Mountain’ and ‘Cliffs’ each evoke a sense of adventure and lifestyle, making it the perfect complement to introduce a line of outerwear products,” she said in a statement. “We are confident that our dedication to comfort, affordability, and timeless style will translate seamlessly into this new venture, providing our customers with a complete head-to-toe experience they can rely on.”

Product expansion has been a top priority for the brand leaders since their union earlier this year. At the time of the acquisition, White Mountain’s chief revenue officer, Robert Geller, said in a statement, “We are looking forward to carrying on the 40-year tradition of the White Mountain brand under new ownership. Teaming up with American Exchange Group will allow us to grow and expand our business, add additional product categories and leverage synergies.”

Other changes have been underway at White Mountain as well. As part of the merger, White Mountain’s New Hampshire-based team took over the sourcing and manufacturing responsibilities for another American Exchange Group brand, Aerosoles, which has been expanding as well with new collections for women, men and children.

For the kids’ business in particular, White Mountain announced on June 5 that it appointed Ian Eichin as VP to oversee the children’s collections for both White Mountain and Aerosoles. Eichin, who most recently held sales and production roles at ES Originals, will report directly to Geller. “Ian’s experience in the U.S. retail market and product sourcing knowledge make him the perfect addition. We are looking forward to this new chapter for the brand and anticipate much success from it,” Geller said in a statement.

2023
06/24
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What Happened to Rockport — And What It Will Take to Bring It Back

Rockport Total Motion DresSport
Rockport Total Motion DresSport shoes.
COURTESY OF ROCKPORT

Storied shoemaker The Rockport Co. surprised the industry last week when it declared bankruptcy and announced plans for a sale, but retail partners said the signs have been there for quite some time.

“Our business with them has declined over the years. They seemed to have had a particularly hard time rebounding from COVID,” said Greg Wagner, co-owner and purchasing VP at Shoe Fly Shoe Inc., which has 20 stores in the Mid-Atlantic region.

Matt Lucas, men’s buyer at Karavel Shoes in Austin, Texas, agreed: “COVID threw them for a loop, and I would say probably more so than a lot of other vendors.”

He credited that, in part, to the company’s unfavorable sourcing setup. “We’ve been doing a lot more business through their Dunham brand than Rockport itself, and Dunham really had a hard time during COVID.” Lucas explained that Dunham (which Rockport acquired from New Balance in 2018) was still manufacturing out of the New Balance facilities and mid-pandemic was forced to secure new production arrangements. “Their whole logistical infrastructure is still in disarray and has been throughout this whole process,” said Lucas.

But for Bob Schwartz, owner of Eneslow Shoes & Orthotics in New York, the troubles at Rockport run much deeper. “They never learned how to be a women’s shoe company,” he said, noting that the company’s biggest strength has been in its men’s professional collection. “But you know — who’s going back to work right now in a new pair of professional dress shoes? You look at New York, and in the financial district, the population is down 70 to 80 percent.”

And within the men’s category, he said Rockport was further undercut by brands like Florsheim, Stacy Adams, Samuel Hubbard and Johnston & Murphy, who were better able to deliver on pricing and product.

Schwartz said the other nail in Rockport’s coffin was the sneaker boom. “They’ve not been involved at all in the running revolution that Hoka and On created,” he said. “And it’s not about brown shoe versus athletic. It’s about innovation versus, you know, the lack thereof.”

Overall, retail partners said Rockport lacked a clear brand identity and needed more investment in marketing and product development — two business areas that are crucial in today’s hyper-competitive consumer marketplace.

On June 15, Rockport announced it had filed for Chapter 11 protection in a U.S. District Court in Delaware in order to “review and restructure” its assets. Coinciding with the move, CEO Greg Ribbatt resigned from the company (though he will still assist with the transition) and Joseph Marchese of PKF Clear Thinking has been appointed chief restructuring officer.

The company also declared that it intended to pursue an auction and sale process and had already entered into negotiations with a potential purchaser to serve as a stalking horse bidder. FN sister publication WWD reported today that Authentic Brands Group is confirmed as the stalking horse bidder, though the court will accept offers through June 26, with a final decision set for June 28.

Authentic has been behind many of the fashion industry’s biggest deals in recent years. Some of its latest acquisitions have included Hunter Boots, Vince, Ted Baker and Reebok. Other names have been floated for potential buyers, including WHP Global and Marquee Brands, but multiple footwear execs pointed to Designer Brands Inc. as another likely home for Rockport.

DBI recently acquired the beleaguered Keds brand from Wolverine Worldwide Inc. to stock in its DSW retail stores. “If its DSW that picks it up, that would be a brilliant move,” said Schwartz. “I love it for anyone who has a bullpen of classic brands.”

In its more than 50-year history, Newton, Mass.-based Rockport has changed ownership a number of times. It was acquired by Reebok in 1986 and remained part of that corporation even when both were owned by Adidas. In 2015, it was sold to New Balance and Berkshire Partners, but was forced in 2018 to declare bankruptcy, in part due to issues stemming to its prior German parent. At the time, CFO Paul Kosturos claimed that a “costly and time-consuming separation” from Adidas was among the key factors contributing to the shoemaker’s need to seek Chapter 11 protection. Rockport was acquired out of bankruptcy in 2018 by its current owner, Charlesbank Capital Partners, a private equity firm.

For Alicia Murray, co-owner of Murray’s Shoes in Littleton, Colo., her hope is that Rockport’s next owner recognizes the heritage of the more than 50-year-old brand. “It’s sad to see such an iconic brand struggle through the years. We hope to see someone buy the company that knows the history of Rockport and the importance of the brand in the shoe industry,” she said. “The Rockport Co. has been a very important part of our size-and-width business and we would hate to lose that.”

And Lucas believes all that’s truly needed is a bit of “renovation” to turn the company around. “I don’t think it’s anything where they’d have to reinvent the wheel,” he said. “Rockport has a lot of name recognition. Just get back to basics and do the things that have worked in the past.”

And what does Rockport do best? Schwartz spelled it out: “Their heritage was to have shoes that were more comfortable, that were first to the market — not last — that had an identity and a brand value. Anybody who wants to follow that model, Rockport is a good brand to bring back.”

2023
06/22
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